I have a Netgear C7000v2 that, as of the last two weeks, is suddenly having T3 timeouts (per the Netgear event logs) every 1-3 hours. It disconnects my internet and eventually either needs the modem/router rebooted or it comes back on its own after about 5-10 mins.
Prior to knowing about the event log, I had a call with Comcast customer service and I was advised to upgrade my service, which was very unhelpful. Considering nothing's changed in my usage over the past year and this issue just sprung up two weeks ago, my internet package isn't the issue. The representative did mention I have a "weak" connection, but didn't expand beyond that. Furthermore, troubleshooting in the Xfinity app has gotten me nowhere, and just says it can't connect. It eventually prompted me in asking if I want a service rep to come, only to say I could be charged for it. Considering how I've already had my real issue disregarded, I'm fearful of having someone come out, say nothing's wrong, and leave and charge me for the visit.
Is anyone able to assist me? I am happy to provide what's needed (event logs, etc) out of the modem's settings, should it be helpful.
Please post the *Downstream Power Level*, the *Upstream Power Level*, and the *SNR* (Signal to Noise Ratio) numbers. And the RF error log entries.
Above are the numbers -- upstream, downstream (and SNR), and the event log I referred to in the initial post. Note that everything is working normally when these screenshots were taken and the internet is not currently down. I tried uploading the pictures through the option in the post editor, but they kept coming back as errors.
The stats looked o/k at that snapshot in time except downstream channels 2 through 5 are a tad weak and the SNR is a bit low on channel 2. They may be intermittently fluctuating out of spec causing your episodes to happen.
Not sure that it will help but here is some stuff that you can try;
In a self troubleshooting effort to try to obtain better connectivity / more wiggle room, check to see if there are there any excess/unneeded coax cable splitters in the line leading to the modem that can be eliminated/re-configured. Any splitters that remain should be high quality and cable rated for 5-1002 MHz, bi-directional, and no gold colored garbage types like GE, RadioShack, RCA, Philips, Leviton, Magnavox, and Rocketfish from big box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Target, Wal-Mart etc. Splitters should be swapped with known to be good / new ones to test
If there aren't any unneeded splitters that can be eliminated and if your coax wiring setup can't be reconfigured so that there is a single two way splitter connected directly off of the drop from the street/pole with one port feeding the modem and the other port feeding the rest of the house/equipment with additional splits as needed, and you've checked all the wiring and fittings for integrity and tightness and refresh them by taking them apart then check for and clean off any corrosion / oxidation on the center wire and put them back together again, then perhaps it's best to book a tech visit to investigate and correct.
Good luck with it !
@EG Thank you for your reply and help!
Last night I confirmed the black line coming into the house was connected fine with the white coax that goes into the house. Went up in the attic and found the active return and the five connections it was splitting to (including my modem/router). After figuring out which coax did go to the modem/router, I took a standard splitter I had and connected the input end with the known input coax cable leading outside and connected the output as the known coax cable leading to the modem/router. Since I don’t need the other four coax inputs that lead throughout the house, I simply didn’t plug those in at all.
So far, overnight there appears to be no issues per the event log, which is encouraging. Typically there is something going on overnight. Here are the results as of this morning. Note that on the event log, I immediately checked it following making this change and nothing has occurred since that check.
On another note, besides splitting (and I guess amplifying) the connection, what all does that amplifier in the attic do? Is there any point to it other than that above purpose? Didn’t know if it was also a safety device should there be a power surge or something of that nature that would’ve been able to stop any event had I left the coax plugged into it.
All in all, should this change fix my issues, is there a chance the amplifier went bad and was causing this? Or do you think there is still a possibility that I still have bad cables/connection and the new removal of the amplifer is more of a band-aid on a problem that will persist / continue to get worse over time?
The downstream power is still on the weak side but it is in spec. It's o/k as long as it doesn't intermittently fluctuate lower to out of spec levels.