goldfreaz's profile

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Wednesday, August 9th, 2023 1:18 PM

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New 400 Mbps plan, phone transferred from modem to cell

I am switching phone service to an Xfinity cell phone.  My current modem, Arris TM822R has worked well for 8 plus years, but it only is getting about 275/10 Mbps.  My voltage levels are shown below.  These current upload levels are a little high.  I think they were 1-2 dBs lower yesterday.  My question is which modem do I  get to achieve the full potential of the current (and future) plan.  I do not know if Comcast will use Docsis 3.1 for this New 400 Mbps plan.  I do not think I will ever need more than 900 Mbps in the future.  I do not mind paying for the S33 but I cannot determine if it is an overkill.  I cannot determine if Comcast will phaseout Docsis 3.0.  Also, I cannot determine the power consumption of the recommended modems, although the Arris S33 and SB8200 seem to have a good potential to use the least amount of power.  I think I do not want to use a Puma modem.  Which modem do you recommend and do I need to have Comcast reduce the upload voltage levels???

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1.5K Messages

1 year ago

Supported equipment is probably going to depend on your market, and WILL depend on the plan speed you want to go with.  Log in and find out what will work for you.  Whatever you get will have to be approved or they won't provision it.  Just get the model number and shop around.  Prices vary.

https://www.xfinity.com/support/articles/list-of-approved-cable-modems 

I think you're going to want DOCSIS 3.1.  Will they discontinue the DOCSIS 3.0 channels?  Probably not for a while, but they'll obsolete those models, they are aging and they are going end of life.  That will happen first.  That means no more firmware updates or bug fixes, and when they are obsolete and when Xfinity decides they are no longer "supported", they will still work, but you may have mixed results for the provisioning as far as the plan speed goes.  They may not be as fast as they currently are -- they are just unsupported at that point.

Will a new modem/gateway fix your signal issue?  Likely not.  Those issues are usually dependent on your wiring.  In the case of upstream power drifting too high, take a look at connectors and splitters.  Old ones.  Unnecessary ones.  A clean direct run is usually better if you don't need one.

https://forums.xfinity.com/conversations/your-home-network/internet-troubleshooting-tips/602dae4ac5375f08cde52ea0 

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@flatlander3​ 

I live in the Connecticut. The approved and recommended Docsis 3.1 modems are Arris S33, SB8200, and Motorola MB8600.  Netgear is priced much higher so I have ruled it out.  I like your comment about Docsis 3.0 modems being near their end of life.  My current modem firmware has not been updated since 2020.

 

The coax, splitter and swaged fittings were all installed by Comcast in ~2012.  The coax is solid copper core, 18? gauge series 6.  The coax goes from the house connection shown below to a four way splitter (picture). One coax goes from the splitter directly to the modem with no breaks.  Another goes to the living room and is not used.   I took these pictures in case this needs to escalate.   Thanks for your help again.

(edited)

Problem Solver

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1.5K Messages

1 year ago

That 1000Mhz splitter is pretty ancient.  Newer ones are rated to 1600Mhz, and newer is likely better and less oxidized.  Proximity Lightning strikes/spikes can melt/degrade them too over time.   A bunch of stubs hanging off of it are actually noise injectors, and signal discontinuities, which does nothing for signal integrity.  That's back in the ole TV set top box days.  A cable going to an empty jack is actually an antenna and a common mode noise injector, and defeats the purpose of noise shielding properties of a coax cable.  If you don't need the splitter it all, you're better off without it.

If you want to go nuts, you can run a new direct line to your modem from that outdoor tap.  Use new RG6 75 ohm indoor/outdoor direct burial coax with the rubber/plastic waterproof boots on the connectors (It's cheap on amazon), or just do it at that indoor splitter with a female-to-female connector to bypass it (really super cheap).  Check out your line stats now and see if it makes a difference on upstream after you do it.  

The frequencies run a bit higher with DOCSIS 3.1, and the higher frequencies with more channels can bring out more problems if you have wiring problems in the first place.  

Outside infrastructure?  Meh.  That's just going to be what it is until the upgrade the entire neighborhood. Work with the house first.

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@flatlander3​ I am glad I took a photograph of the splitter.  You have identified quite a few issues.  I was told that the splitter was needed to reduce the levels, but I see 0.7 dBs on the splitter and I now question that explanation.

I put a ceiling in the basement so the coax is mostly buried.  I will replace the splitter with a union and look at the levels.  I am not in a hurry to do any of this because I do not have any problems with the current speed.  I think the only issue is I sometimes must resent web pages to update, but that could be anything.  Are the splitter coax connections tamper proof or will the coax terminations simply unscrew?

Thanks again for your rapid responses.  You have answers multiple questions I have had.  I get the cell phone tomorrow so the phone number will be transferred off the modem.  I assume the modem will be re-provisioned when the phone number is moved.

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@goldfreaz​ Those connection are NOT tamper proof.  They'll just unscrew like any other coax connector.  Work from whichever side is easier.

** Edit:  For the Cell -- Well, I don't know how the phone number part works.  I never used a cable/SIP VoIP phone if you were talking about doing that, so I don't know if that cable phone number transfers to a cell carrier, or if it's State-by-State based, or what the deal is.  Local law may apply so it can or HAS to be able to.  If you were talking about porting from a cell carrier to a different cell carrier -- well of course, that works fine.  Usually no delay on that too, or it happens within an hour or so when you activate your brand new phone with your old number.

The modem, it's just the modem and does internet so that won't care one way or another.  If your previous plan was cable VoIP/Sip phone, the number just stop working on the next billing cycle, but the internet part still works.

(edited)

Problem Solver

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1.5K Messages

1 year ago

Oh.  Fair warning.  That splitter?  It's also an attenuator.  A 7dB drop.  You might see the downstream power increase dramatically, and that is another issue.  Can cause  the front end to overload, reboots, uncorrectable errors.

There's an inline filter you can get for that called a forward path attenuator.  They are $10-$15 on amazon.  I'd post a link but the bot hates that and marks it private when I do.  Search for "forward path attenuator".  The description will be "PPC FPA6-54 in-line Forward Path Attenuator 6dB 75 ohms for DOCSIS..."  That does the same thing, but no stubs to interfere with the signal.  Screw it to the back of the gateway if you want.  Does nothing with the outbound upstream signal.

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43 Messages

@flatlander3​ Thanks for catching that.  I thought it was 0.7 not 7.0 dBs!

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43 Messages

@flatlander3​ I found the attenuator on amazon.  I assume the polarity is correct if I screw it on the modem.  I will also buy a union to replace the splitter.

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@goldfreaz​ Yep.  Only one way it goes in :)  I had to do that at one of my places too after a drunken neighbor took out the cable box and they "fixed the cable".

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@flatlander3​ So Comcast turn off the landline Saturday morning but did not activate the mobile until Monday morning.  My wife was not happy which means hell for me. I installed the attenuator also this morning and it works exactly like you predicted.  The new readings are below.  I am assuming the downstream levels are good on the high side?

New speed test limited by Arris T-822R modem. 
 

(edited)

Problem Solver

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1.5K Messages

@goldfreaz​ Yeah.  Upstream has plenty of wiggle room, downstream has a bit to move too.  Usually only varies by 1-2 dB at the most anyway during the day.  Sometimes not that much at all.  

Let it ride for a week and see how it works out.

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