Ok, what do the modem's signal status values look like ? Try getting them here; http://192.168.100.1
Please copy all of the text in its entirety of the *Downstream Power Levels*, the *SNR's* (Signal to Noise Ratios), and the *Upstream Power Level* numbers and paste them into your next post.
Is there a router in the mix here ? If so, is this with a WiFi connection ?
This field below allows you to modify the frequency the cable modem start with its scan during initialization and registration. Enter the new start frequency and restart the cable modem for it to take effect.
This may or may not be the root cause of the problem (YMMV) but it should be addressed regardless.
The downstream power is on the low /weak side and it may be intermittently fluctuating even lowerer to out of spec levels. That can cause random disconnects, spontaneous re-booting of the modem, speed, packet loss, latency problems, and the un-bonding of channels.
In an effort to try to obtain better connectivity / more wiggle room, check to see if there are any excess/unneeded coax cable splitters in the line leading to the modem that can be eliminated/reconfigured. Any splitters that remain should be high quality and cable rated for 5-1002 MHz, bi-directional, and no gold colored garbage from Home Depot, Target, Wal-Mart, etc. Splitters should be swapped with known to be good / new ones to test.
Also, check the coax cable for any damage such as cuts, nicks, abrasions, kinks, sharp bends, or animal chews.
If there aren't any unneeded splitters that can be eliminated and if your coax wiring setup can't be reconfigured so that there is a single two-way splitter connected directly off of the drop from the street / pole with one port feeding the modem and the other port feeding the rest of the house/equipment with additional splits as needed and you've checked all the wiring and fittings for integrity and tightness and refresh them by taking them apart then check for and clean off any corrosion / oxidation on the center wire and put them back together again, then perhaps it's best to book a tech visit to investigate and correct.
You didn't mention the make and the model number of the router? And for another test, what speed do you get with that PC connected directly to the CM1000 (no router in the mix) ?
You'll need to power cycle the modem when you make this change, and then again when you re-insert the router into the path.
The Router is an ASUS RT-AC66U B1 running the latest firmware
I will start checking the connections, do you have a recommended splitter brand? I am not sure if there are any, and if they are needed, this modem is the only thing on the line so i may be able to remove any that are in place
No splitters on the line, one FF connector in the closet and a GLS-100 outside in the cabinet, the house is only 6 years old so wiring is all new, connections are tight.
You're quite welcome ! That router should be fine for that speed plan. If it winds up that you need to replace a splitter, I will recommend some brands that Comcast actually uses.
EG
Expert
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114.1K Messages
6 hours ago
Which speed plan are you subscribed to ?
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EG
Expert
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114.1K Messages
6 hours ago
Ok, what do the modem's signal status values look like ? Try getting them here; http://192.168.100.1
Please copy all of the text in its entirety of the *Downstream Power Levels*, the *SNR's* (Signal to Noise Ratios), and the *Upstream Power Level* numbers and paste them into your next post.
Is there a router in the mix here ? If so, is this with a WiFi connection ?
(edited)
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EG
Expert
•
114.1K Messages
6 hours ago
admin is the default username, and password is the default password.
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GuyM4
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11 Messages
6 hours ago
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EG
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114.1K Messages
5 hours ago
This may or may not be the root cause of the problem (YMMV) but it should be addressed regardless.
The downstream power is on the low /weak side and it may be intermittently fluctuating even lowerer to out of spec levels. That can cause random disconnects, spontaneous re-booting of the modem, speed, packet loss, latency problems, and the un-bonding of channels.
In an effort to try to obtain better connectivity / more wiggle room, check to see if there are any excess/unneeded coax cable splitters in the line leading to the modem that can be eliminated/reconfigured. Any splitters that remain should be high quality and cable rated for 5-1002 MHz, bi-directional, and no gold colored garbage from Home Depot, Target, Wal-Mart, etc. Splitters should be swapped with known to be good / new ones to test.
Also, check the coax cable for any damage such as cuts, nicks, abrasions, kinks, sharp bends, or animal chews.
If there aren't any unneeded splitters that can be eliminated and if your coax wiring setup can't be reconfigured so that there is a single two-way splitter connected directly off of the drop from the street / pole with one port feeding the modem and the other port feeding the rest of the house/equipment with additional splits as needed and you've checked all the wiring and fittings for integrity and tightness and refresh them by taking them apart then check for and clean off any corrosion / oxidation on the center wire and put them back together again, then perhaps it's best to book a tech visit to investigate and correct.
You didn't mention the make and the model number of the router? And for another test, what speed do you get with that PC connected directly to the CM1000 (no router in the mix) ?
You'll need to power cycle the modem when you make this change, and then again when you re-insert the router into the path.
2
0
EG
Expert
•
114.1K Messages
5 hours ago
You're quite welcome ! That router should be fine for that speed plan. If it winds up that you need to replace a splitter, I will recommend some brands that Comcast actually uses.
1
0
EG
Expert
•
114.1K Messages
5 hours ago
Please clarify what a GLS 100 is ? Is it an amplifier ?
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