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6 Messages
Arris SB8200 connection drops
I recently upgraded my plan from the 175mb to the 300mb internet. I went ahead and bought the Arriss SB8200 because I do eventually have plans on going to the 1gb plan. A couple days after purchasing the modem I would intermittently lose internet. I chalked it up to work in the area because my old modem dropped out once or twice right before I switched (taking note it hasn't dropped internet randomly in months).
It has been raining really bad recently and there's a box at the end of my driveway which contains the node to my house and my neighbors house. It constantly gets hit by cars because of it's location and I'm 99% sure the wiring is bad here.
Arris is telling me there are a lot of T3 errors which then results in a SYNC Timing Synchronization failure. So from ~9PM-9AM I have no internet. I have to manually reset the power to the modem only for it to drop out a few minutes later. This has been happening since Sunday (8/23) night. I switched my modem over to the new one on Friday (8/21).
So I'm sure most of the noise in my line is caused by this box at the end of my drive way that gets hit by cars. I had a tech come out and try to bury it some more into the ground and he ended up bending the wire into a hard L shape. This caused my internet and TV to drop in the house. He eventually undid his work and just put a stake in the ground to hold it upright more. I'm now assuming after all this rain the water is just sitting around the node, possibly causing the noise. I've read several posts online saying the SB8200 has a lot of T3/T4 issues when the day winds down and activity is a lot less.
I'm trying to decide if I need to switch back to my old modem until a person comes out and checks the node outside my house. If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated!
Maybe I don't have the most recent firmware version? Here are my stats:
Hardware Version | 6 |
Software Version | D31CM-PEREGRINE-1.1.1.0-GA-11-NOSH |
Channel ID | Lock Status | Modulation | Frequency | Power | SNR/MER | Corrected | Uncorrectables |
5 | Locked | QAM256 | 507000000 Hz | -6.5 dBmV | 33.4 dB | 0 | 0 |
1 | Locked | QAM256 | 477000000 Hz | -5.4 dBmV | 41.1 dB | 0 | 0 |
2 | Locked | QAM256 | 483000000 Hz | -5.3 dBmV | 41.2 dB | 0 | 0 |
3 | Locked | QAM256 | 489000000 Hz | -5.4 dBmV | 32.6 dB | 0 | 0 |
4 | Locked | QAM256 | 495000000 Hz | -6.1 dBmV | 36.4 dB | 0 | 0 |
6 | Locked | QAM256 | 513000000 Hz | -6.9 dBmV | 35.7 dB | 0 | 0 |
7 | Locked | QAM256 | 519000000 Hz | -7.4 dBmV | 40.7 dB | 0 | 0 |
8 | Locked | QAM256 | 525000000 Hz | -7.7 dBmV | 40.7 dB | 0 | 0 |
9 | Locked | QAM256 | 531000000 Hz | -8.7 dBmV | 28.8 dB | 7047211 | 1708528 |
10 | Locked | QAM256 | 537000000 Hz | -9.5 dBmV | 28.9 dB | 784241 | 788 |
11 | Locked | QAM256 | 543000000 Hz | -9.9 dBmV | 31.4 dB | 12156 | 0 |
12 | Locked | QAM256 | 549000000 Hz | -10.3 dBmV | 36.4 dB | 0 | 0 |
13 | Locked | QAM256 | 555000000 Hz | -10.7 dBmV | 38.2 dB | 0 | 0 |
14 | Locked | QAM256 | 561000000 Hz | -10.3 dBmV | 39.4 dB | 0 | 0 |
15 | Locked | QAM256 | 567000000 Hz | -9.9 dBmV | 39.6 dB | 0 | 0 |
16 | Locked | QAM256 | 573000000 Hz | -9.8 dBmV | 39.7 dB | 0 | 0 |
17 | Locked | QAM256 | 579000000 Hz | -9.2 dBmV | 40.0 dB | 0 | 0 |
18 | Locked | QAM256 | 585000000 Hz | -9.5 dBmV | 39.7 dB | 0 | 0 |
19 | Locked | QAM256 | 591000000 Hz | -9.6 dBmV | 30.4 dB | 5216967 | 389730 |
20 | Locked | QAM256 | 597000000 Hz | -9.7 dBmV | 37.0 dB | 29 | 0 |
21 | Locked | QAM256 | 603000000 Hz | -9.7 dBmV | 39.6 dB | 0 | 0 |
22 | Locked | QAM256 | 609000000 Hz | -9.7 dBmV | 39.6 dB | 0 | 0 |
23 | Locked | QAM256 | 615000000 Hz | -9.1 dBmV | 39.8 dB | 0 | 0 |
33 | Locked | Other | 690000000 Hz | -8.4 dBmV | 33.8 dB | 16234182 | 0 |
34 | Not Locked | QAM256 | 0 Hz | 0.0 dBmV | 41.1 dB | 0 | 0 |
35 | Locked | QAM256 | 453000000 Hz | -5.3 dBmV | 40.9 dB | 0 | 0 |
36 | Locked | QAM256 | 459000000 Hz | -5.3 dBmV | 41.1 dB | 0 | 0 |
37 | Locked | QAM256 | 465000000 Hz | -5.5 dBmV | 41.1 dB | 0 | 0 |
38 | Locked | QAM256 | 471000000 Hz | -5.5 dBmV | 41.7 dB | 0 | 0 |
39 | Locked | QAM256 | 429000000 Hz | -4.0 dBmV | 41.5 dB | 0 | 0 |
40 | Locked | QAM256 | 435000000 Hz | -4.1 dBmV | 41.4 dB | 0 | 0 |
41 | Locked | QAM256 | 441000000 Hz | -4.7 dBmV | 41.3 dB | 0 | 0 |
Channel | Channel ID | Lock Status | US Channel Type | Frequency | Width | Power |
1 | 41 | Locked | SC-QAM | 35600000 Hz | 6400000 Hz | 38.0 dBmV |
2 | 42 | Locked | SC-QAM | 29200000 Hz | 6400000 Hz | 38.0 dBmV |
3 | 43 | Locked | SC-QAM | 22800000 Hz | 6400000 Hz | 37.0 dBmV |
4 | 44 | Locked | SC-QAM | 16400000 Hz | 6400000 Hz | 37.0 dBmV |
EG
Expert
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104.4K Messages
4 years ago
The downstream power is generally too low / weak (some are out of spec as are some of the SNR's). That can cause random disconnects, spontaneous re-booting of the modem, speed, packet loss, latency problems, and the un-bonding of channels.
Some stuff that you can try. If none of the below applies, then you'll need a tech out to investigate / work on that tap / pedestal.
In a self troubleshooting effort to try to obtain better connectivity / more wiggle room, check to see if there are there any excess/unneeded coax cable splitters in the line leading to the modem that can be eliminated/re-configured. Any splitters that remain should be high quality and cable rated for 5-1002 MHz, bi-directional, and no gold colored garbage types like GE, RadioShack, RCA, Philips, Leviton, Magnavox, and Rocketfish from big box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Target, Wal-Mart etc. Splitters should be swapped with known to be good / new ones to test
If there aren't any unneeded splitters that can be eliminated and if your coax wiring setup can't be reconfigured so that there is a single two way splitter connected directly off of the drop from the street/pole with one port feeding the modem and the other port feeding the rest of the house/equipment with additional splits as needed, and you've checked all the wiring and fittings for integrity and tightness and refresh them by taking them apart then check for and clean off any corrosion / oxidation on the center wire and put them back together again, then perhaps it's best to book a tech visit to investigate and correct.
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aleos
New Poster
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6 Messages
4 years ago
I have 1 CommScope splitter that is 5-1002Mhz. The main line hits the splitter and 1 goes to the modem while the other goes to my HDHomeRun Prime.
I believe this splitter was supplied to me by Comcast when they initially connected my house back in 2014.
I checked the fittings and everything is tight and orderly. My house was built with a SCP panel so it houses all of my stuff in my closet. No other electronic shows any corrosion or other deterring effects.
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aleos
New Poster
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6 Messages
4 years ago
I just got off the phone with Comcast and was told that getting a tech out isn't doable because of COVID. The guy wasn't from the US so I'm not sure he fully understood my issue and just sent a "reset" to my SB8200.
I had asked him to change my modem back to my old one and then submit a ticket for a tech to come out but he did neither of those since he said the reset he sent to the 8200 "should fix my issue". I really don't want to wait until 9PM for my internet to go down for the fourth night in a row. I have security systems and other things that rely on my internet, let alone the fact that I'm paying for no internet.
I know this box outside is the point of fault as it has been in the past. What do I need to say or be able to call someone in the US to help me? Thanks.
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scraig2
Contributor
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60 Messages
4 years ago
I am in exactly the same boat. My modem logs look very similar to yours, I also have the SB8200. I have literally been on chat with Xfinity since 4am this morning. They will send a signal and it makes things worse. Then I keep getting the run around about a tech coming out. I have spent 100+ bucks putting in all new cables. I have no splitters at all. I have done everything mentioned in this forum and I still cant get over 500 on a 1GB plan. I show them pics of speed tests and they still wont do anything. This is very frustrating.
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aleos
New Poster
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6 Messages
4 years ago
Sorry I wanted to reply sooner but I was getting 401 errors when trying to login to this forum.
I finally got a rep who switched my modem back to my original one while I purchased a new one (Netgear CM1000v2). My network was just fine while I waited for the new modem to arrive. After I called back to get the Netgear activated and since my internet has been doing just fine in terms of not dropping out every night like it did with the Arris SB8200.
I believe though my stats look roughly the same (within a partially weak signal) due to the pedestal at the end of my driveway. Comcast says that the signal is fine and they can't send out a tech unless the system generates a ticket because of COVID. I guess I will have to wait for COVID to die down some before I can get someone out to check out the line again and hopefully replace the whole splitter out there as I know it is a contingent point of my network degredation.
Here are the stats with the Netgear:
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EG
Expert
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104.4K Messages
4 years ago
Most of the downstream power levels are still poor / out of spec. Your new modem may be a bit more tolerant of less than stellar stats than was the previous one. This still should be addressed nevertheless. Good luck !
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