OK, here's the deal. You want only a 2-way splitter behind the modem for max speeds/stable connection. You very likely have 2 splitters - one that goes between the modem, pole, and 2nd splitter. Then the 2nd one goes on to the TV's. I assume you don't have some kind of 'booster' on the TV lines as those are generally 1-way and stop cable modem signals dead, for obvious reasons. ;) The modem will tell you how much power it is trying to transmit with (lower=better), and how much it's recieving (probably between -10 to +10). The modem's manual should tell you what the rough limit is on that model. If it's borderline already on the first splitter, then splitting it further is likely the source of your problems. It also doesn't hurt to unhook and reconnect (or just tighten) the connectors... Might just be loose? Just use the classic process of elimination and an extension cord to check all the lines/splitter outputs. A laptop taken outside with you can be very handy for when you plug in the modem directly, bypassing the house's wiring. Not too hard - Good luck!
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Tin - I mean aluminum foil? j/k :) Seriously though, some metal screen material like that on many screen doors would be fine enough to work, while not blocking airflow. Quite frankly, the idea of having wireless users on my Internet connection that I can't block/monitor is very scary, given the over-reactions these days to "Internet crimes" with no proof other than an IP address (which is very spoofable). I hope they at least had the sense to give it a second address or use a forced transparent proxy. It's annoying that that 'feature' is hidden behind some Password of the Day *ominous voice*. I checked and you essentially have to get them to bridge it and let you use your own router. Had same issues with a DPC2100 before it. At least it was just a transparent modem. It's just the way Comcast has their policies. Don't like it - buy your own and stop renting, hehe.
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